For founder George Zhang, ShunYi Cellars represents much more than wine. It is an expression of culture, values, and history. It tells stories, of past and present. And it has the power to bring people together. We had the opportunity to experience ShunYi Cellars, and came away with a new perspective on the power of wine.
A Tale of Integrity
ShunYi Cellars is inspired by the ancient Chinese emperor, Shun (舜). You might be thinking, sure – China has had hundreds of emperors. What makes this one any different? Well, Emperor Shun is considered to be one of China’s greatest emperors. In fact, he pretty much has demigod status. Shun ruled over 4,000 years ago. There are no written records from this time. What’s more important is what Shun represents, rather than whatever he might have factually accomplished.
Lore has it that Emperor Shun ruled with the utmost integrity and humility. “He continued to work with his hands while somehow running a country,” writes Jonathan Clements in his book, A Brief History of China 1. On this note, we find parallels to ShunYi Cellars’ founder George Zhang. While Zhang owns ShunYi Cellars, he can also be found sorting grapes, assisting with pumpovers, and even stomping on grapes. No job is too lowly for Zhang, who is passionate about every detail of his job. From shopping for bottles to vineyard sites, Zhang is intimately involved with his winery at every step of the way.
Shun was also famed for being a compassionate leader, with a strong respect for family. Similarly, family and friends are core to Zhang and the ShunYi Cellars identity. Both inaugural ShunYi Cellars wine labels honor relationships. The Chardonnay, “Xiang Si” 相思, means “to think about the ones you care for and love.” It expresses gratitude for the many people who have helped create ShunYi Cellars. The Pinot Noir, “Chong Feng” 重逢, means “to reunite.” It celebrates the joy of reunions with loved ones.
The Craft of Winemaking
ShunYi Cellars draws inspiration from the past. However, its winemaking reflects a more modern philosophy. “Winemaker Byron Kosuge and I are both lovers of old-world wines,” says Zhang. “We also appreciate the expression of fruits often found in the new world. Therefore, we want to strike a balance between the old world and the new world.”
Having tasted ShunYi Cellars’ wines, I believe they deftly walk the line between the old and new world. The Xiang Si Chardonnay has the bright, lemony acidity and saline character of a Chablis. However, its opulence and roundness of fruit is reminiscent of the new world style, with notes of apricot, yellow peach, and toasted almond. The Xiang Si’s vibrant acidity is perfect with the savory, rich flavors of shrimp and egg in Yangzhou-style fried rice.
To note, while the Xiang Si Chardonnay is from the Santa Lucia Highlands, future vintages may come from other AVAs. “We are trying to build a strong and stable portfolio of vineyard sources as we grow our production size,” says Zhang.
The Chong Feng Pinot Noir is a vibrant expression of cool-climate Pinot Noir. It is a bright ruby in the glass, and filled with the fragrance of earthy red cherry, raspberry, hibiscus, vanilla, cinnamon, and other baking spices. On the palate, it has the acidity of fresh cranberries, smoothed out by polished, fine-grained tannins. With its cleansing acidity and light profile, this Pinot makes an excellent partner to crispy Hanetsuki pork Gyoza.
Kudos to Kosuge and Zhang for their care throughout the process, from sourcing, to harvest, to winemaking. Their resulting wines are elegant and distinctive. With clarity of fruit, clean acidity, and a dry finish, both ShunYi Cellars wines are true to their terroirs.
Looking Towards the Future
As a wine lover, I always lament the absence of wine in Chinese restaurants. You’re more likely to see apple cider at Chinese banquet dinners – not what most adults want to drink! Hopefully, this will soon change with ShunYi Cellars carving a place for wine in Asian cuisine. One of Zhang’s first goals is to reach more Asian restaurants in the Bay Area. “Our production doubled from 2020 to 2021,” he says.
It’s impressive to think that Zhang started ShunYi Cellars just three years ago, in 2019. Now, its possibilities abound, both as a winery and as an expression of culture. Zhang’s dream: to create a unique wine experience and storefront. “I don’t want to just open a tasting room or wine bar,” says Zhang. “I want to add many new elements to this space.”
Whatever Zhang builds, it is sure to be innovative and meaningful. We look forward to seeing him turn his vision into a reality. To learn more about ShunYi Cellars or purchase the latest vintage, visit ShunYiCellars.com.
1 – Clements, Jonathan. A Brief History of China. Singapore, Tuttle Publishing, 2019.