The Ultimate Braised Lamb and Wine Pairing: Bordeaux vs. Brunello

Wild, gamey, and rustic – the distinct flavors of lamb are compatible with a wide range of wines. When choosing a wine pairing, the lamb’s preparation is key. Lamb chops cooked rare are delicious with Pinot Noir, or even Rosé. On the flip side, a slow-cooked lamb shank needs a fuller-bodied wine. In this article, we’ll be exploring two wine pairings with hearty braised lamb.

French Bordeaux and Italian Sangiovese are two of the top wine pairing recommendations for braised lamb. We decided to put both to the test, and see which one paired better throughout the course of a meal. For a fair comparison, both the Bordeaux and Sangiovese we selected were young and accessibly-priced.

The test:

  • The Food: Lamb shanks were seasoned in fresh rosemary, minced garlic, salt, and pepper. We then slow-cooked the shanks on a bed of broth, carrots, celery, onions, and mushrooms for 8 hours.
  • The Bordeaux: We uncorked a French Bordeaux AOC blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. It had the classic Bordeaux profile of black plum and black currant, laced with cracked black pepper, vanilla, and hints of graphite. The core of dark fruit was balanced by powerful, structured tannins and fresh acidity. In the glass, it was deep purple fading to pink at the rim.
  • The Rosso di Montalcino: Italy’s Montalcino region is known for Brunello, a local clone of the Sangiovese grape. Brunello yields some of the most complex, fragrant expressions of Sangiovese in the world. We picked Rosso di Montalcino, a younger and more affordable version of Brunello di Montalcino. It is aged for only one year before release, compared to Brunello’s 4-5 years of aging. Rosso di Montalcino is fruitier than Brunello di Montalcino, but otherwise has a similar aromatic profile. It is warm and earthy, with fragrances of tobacco, dried cherry, wild berry, leather, herbs, anise, licorice, and cedar spice. It has citrusy acidity, structured tannins, and a dry, earthy finish. In the glass, it is garnet fading to amber at the rim.

The winner:

Rosso di Montalcino was our winning wine pairing with lamb. From start to finish, its medium-to-full body and delicate aromatics were perfect to complement, but not overpower, the braised lamb. Each sip of this earthy, herbal wine was harmonious with the rustic, rosemary-laced lamb. Rosso di Montalcino’s dried cherry and wild berry notes made pops of flavor against the rich, savory stew. Its acidity held up to the ingredients of the braise, from tomatoes and garlic to assorted vegetables.

We were somewhat surprised to find that we liked the Bordeaux pairing less, given that it is often recommended with lamb. However, young Bordeaux is intense. Its concentrated punch of dark fruit to the palate felt strong against the mild, succulent lamb. As we sipped and ate, I realized the robust, peppery notes of Bordeaux would be perfect if I seasoned the lamb with generous amounts of cracked black pepper, and then roasted it to a good char. A smoky, crusted lamb would hold up far better under Bordeaux’ powerful tannins and oak than a rich, tender stew.

Of course, Bordeaux varies greatly by producer. If you can find a medium-bodied Bordeaux blend, rather than a full-bodied Bordeaux, it will be more compatible with braised lamb. One tip is to look for Cabernet Franc in the Bordeaux blend. Cabernet Franc is a thinner-skinned grape. Its presence can yield a slightly less full-bodied Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc also has floral and herbal notes that complement the grassy, gamy nature of lamb. Another great way to make Bordeaux play better with lamb shank is to cook it as a roast instead of a braise.

Tried this pairing? Let us know what you think of it with your rating below!